Turkey!
We Toured Turkey for only $140 per day!
We took a ten night, multi-cities tour of Turkey for only $1399 per person. Airfare, hotels, and most meals were included.
This trip to Turkey was booked through Exoticca, and flew out of Los Angeles. The price is based on double occupancy ($300 extra for singletons) for ten nights.
It was my first trip with a tour company. I was traveling with my regular travel buddy, Renee. We have different preferences when traveling (me at a hostel for $20 a night; her at a nicer hotel for $100 per night).
Would I take another tour? I’m undecided, because there were lots of great parts about the trip, but other things I didn’t like. I tend to like to be very independent, and like to explore a lot more. But almost everyone else loved it. They enjoyed the fact that they didn’t have to “think,” since almost every detail was planned. Without a doubt, it was well worth the cost.
Here are the details:
Prior to the trip, I had a couple of sweet experiences. In my church we call them “tender mercies.”
The first tender mercy was on the Thursday before our Sunday departure. I’d been in my classroom and stepped next door to borrow some milk from my co-worker.
“I just got a text from Monica,” she said. “She’s at the airport with her husband. They’re going to Vietnam and he forgot to apply for his travel visa. They won’t let him on the plane.”
“A visa? For a week? I’ve never heard of that. What countries require a visa?”
“I don’t know but Vietnam does.”
I went back to my classroom feeling uneasy and decided to check, just to be safe.
Turkey required a visa! I quickly dialed Exoticca.
“Are we all set on our travel documents? Does Turkey require a visa?” I asked in a rush.
The very nice lady on the phone spoke very slowly. “Well, let me see. First, I need to check your name. Is it spelled C-Y-N-T-H-I-A…” Ten minutes later, after checking that she had the right people, she reviewed all of our documents, adding, “Yes, yes, good, yes,” and ending with, “everything’s taken care of.”
“Whew,” I said with the half-laugh of a someone who’s dodged the bullet. “That’s a relief. Thank you for your—”
“Oh wait. You need a visa. Call the Turkish embassy. They can advise you what to do.”
“Call the Turkish embassy?” I squeaked.
“I can give you the number. If you apply now you can have it in six weeks.”
“We’re leaving Sunday!”
I did call, and after pressing option 1, then 4, then 7, 3, 0, then 2, then 6, I got a Turk with a lovely accent who said we could apply for a e-visa online for $50 and receive it right away. It was actually pretty easy.
And by the way, our friend’s husband was eventually able to get his visa and board the plane after paying a HUGE fee. Money does talk.
The second tender mercy happened when we dropped off the car and were waiting for the shuttle to the airport. I paid for valet parking, and after about 20 minutes, it bugged me that the valet had left my car sitting out on the street instead of parking it in the garage. This is downtown Los Angeles. I need my catalytic converter to be there when I returned from my trip.
Just then I realized I’d left my phone in the car. The valet wouldn’t have known this, as he hadn’t been within ten yards of my car, but his delay saved me a big headache. Thank goodness I hadn’t made it all the way to the airport before realizing my phone was still in my car. As soon as I retrieved my phone, he parked my car.
Day 1 & 2
We spent one and a half days traveling—either flying, or waiting to catch our next flight. Because of the time change, it’s a bit hard to figure out how long you’ve actually been in the air, and what time it was back home, but it seemed like a very long time.
The first leg, Los Angeles to Montreal, took five hours. If you count the three hours before the flight, we already had eight hours under our belt. There was a three-hour layover in Montreal, then seven hours to Geneva, a two-hour layover, and another three hours to Istanbul. It was almost dark when we arrived, and very dark by the time our shuttle got us to the hotel.
The hotel was Tryp by Wyndham, in Topkapi. I looked up the cost of that hotel and even with discounts, it was over $100.
I was exhausted. There was not much to see out the window other than souvenir and sundry shops, and a food place selling döner kebabs. You’d never know by looking at this little corner of Istanbul that we were in a city of twenty million people.
I took a shower and applied a 15-minute facial mask–which ended up being an 8-hour mask since I didn’t awake until 4 a.m.—which was actually 5:00 p.m. back home.
Day 3
The bus left at 6:30 a.m. We were given breakfast of cheese and salami on a roll, and a boxed juice. Not what I’d envisioned, but tasty once I removed the salami. We got on the bus and drove about two hours then stopped for an hour at a restaurant/market. I bought figs and Renee got lentil soup. She noticed men at the other tables were served baskets of bread while she wasn’t given any. Normally she avoids gluten like an anorexic person, but this is a gal who wants all that she’s entitled to—and then some. When she asked an employee—or tried to ask since she didn’t speak English—a man at the next table asked if he could be of service. She explained the bread situation and he handed over a slice to each of us from his own basket.
Turks, we would learn, are very hospitable.
We got back on the bus and rode until we got to Ankara and the temple of some famous Turkish war hero, I think it was Mustafa Kemal Atatürk but I’m not completely sure. Sorry.
This place was the most protected of the country. We were able to see the changing of the guard, and walk around a museum that was mostly war stories and images of generals and soldiers. It wasn’t crowded, but there were several groups of adorable chattering school children escorted by both male and female teachers, and a few parents.
After an hour at the tomb, we went to lunch. We sat with a Sikh couple living in England, and a family from Arkansas. Both groups were well-traveled. The Arkansas family took two international vacations each year. The Sikh couple traveled just as much.
Our next stop was the Great Salt Lake of Turkey. The Lake Tuz provides Turkey with 80% of its salt. To get to the lake, we had to walk through a small market, and before I could get out the back door of the market, I was approached by an employee selling salt scrub. He was insistent I try his product. My hands were uncomfortably dry, and had been for the several days, so I went along with it. Once he finished with me, I thanked him and went out the door. Later, it would be the one purchase I regretted not making. My hands felt amazing for days. The dryness was completely gone.
The Great Salt Lake of turkey was covered with salt crystals and I expected it to be muddy, but it wasn’t. You could walk around the beds of salt and not get wet. Not only that, but the setting sun in the background made a picturesque walk on the shore.
By the time we got to the hotel it was late and dark. We had a very nice buffet dinner and I wanted to take a walk outside, but there didn’t seem to be anywhere to go other than wandering off into empty land. Our hotel seemed remote. Where the heck were the good people of Turkey? I couldn’t fall asleep that night, even after taking a sleeping pill.
Day 4
I awoke late. Had to rush to get ready and grab some breakfast before racing to the bus. I was already tired of this. I wanted to relax, sleep in, and explore on my own. But, apparently, we were heading to a rug factory. Yawn. I knew it was obligatory, but I wasn’t looking forward to it.
Surprisingly, the rug business is fascinating. Rug making is a dying occupation because women no longer want to sit crouched over strands of yarn twisting little knots until their eyes blur and their backs ache, earning only $400 per month. They’d rather work in factories earning twice that amount for half the aggravation. The country does not want this profitable industry to die out, so they are trying to keep it alive by creating incentives such as free shipping for rug purchasers. It doesn’t make sense to me, either. Why not pay the women more?
I did learn how to tell the difference between a hand-woven and machine-made rug, why they are so durable, that the cost varies depending on the number of knots per inch, its age, the town where it was made, whether it is silk or wool. If you are interested, we went to Carpet House. Ask for Guven (+90 384 219 30 55).
I bought one. As my friend, Ed, said, “You have to. It’s supporting the arts.”
After the carpet tour, when visited the Goreme Valley Open Air Museum, which consisted of a fascinating landscape filled with strange and beautiful rock formations, and gorgeous frescos painted inside the Byzantine Monastery. We moved on to explore Valleys of Avcilar, Pasabagi, and Guvercinlik to see the “Fairy Chimneys” which are strange boulders that do, in fact, look like chimneys.
Lunchtime
We stopped for lunch at a traditional Turkish restaurant. Renee and I, along with at least three other groups, decided to skip lunch and take a walk around. We were glad we did because we found the town larger and more interesting than we’d expected. The houses were large and many quite modern-looking. They seemed to be multi-family, like where the grandparents live on the bottom, the middle-aged couple live in the middle with children, and the adult son and his bride live on the top floor.
The town was very clean, and free from junk-strewn lawns or yards. There were few very small grocery stores, some restaurants, and a couple souvenir-type shops. The city center had a little park. As Bill Bryson would say, it was really nice in “Thank-you-God-for-not-making-me-live-here,” sort of way.
Interestingly, there are lots of dogs and cats roaming free in Turkey. They don’t bother you, other than to come up to be petted. One dog, a black lab probably, followed up all the way to the bus. He was as sweet as he could be. As I tried to take his photo, he kept licking my hand.
Urgup
We were dropped off at the hotel after that, and Renee and I decided to go back out and explore the city of Urgup. The taxi cost 90 lira, which equaled $4.83. We got there in time for prayers. There is something magical about hearing those Turkish (I’m assuming, but maybe it’s Arabic) prayers sung out over a loudspeaker throughout the town.
The shopkeepers spoke a little English and were so nice and helpful. At one place three men were sitting down to a plate of tomatoes, olives, cucumbers, and maybe cheese. We only wanted to use their restroom but they welcomed us in, let us use the facilities, and offered to share their meal. They weren’t flirting with us; it was just their Turkish hospitality. They would’ve offered it to anyone, I’m sure of it.
Day 5
Back on the bus first thing in the morning. We had to have our suitcases outside our door at 6:00 a.m. and straight to our wonderful breakfast buffet. I realized that day that part of what I love about vacation time off is NOT getting up early. It was actually irrelevant since I’d been up since 1:00 a.m. anyway, thanks to jet lag. Still, I reasoned, I could’ve slept from 5-8 a.m. if I didn’t have to get on a dang bus.
We drove about an hour and stopped at the cool little town of Derinkuyu with a “Underground City.” As we pulled up to this primitive little village where a gypsy sat out front selling odd souvenirs, a large flock of sheep painted various rainbow colors came down the road driven by a shepherd and several barking dogs. Once the sheep passed by, the dogs wandered over to me. I like dogs, but I don’t love them. Why they always seem to head straight for me is a mystery.
Thanksgiving
Soon a flock of turkeys passed by. We all took a photo. Turkeys, in Turkey, on Thanksgiving seemed to be the perfect social media post.
The hidden city was built during the Byzantine era, about 395 AD, by the Turks trying to hide from Persian soldiers. Stories were told that when the Persians rode up, there were so many of them the ground shook. To avoid being slaughtered, they would run through the tunnels that branched out in many directions and developed into rooms and hiding places. There were many, many areas of the city, our guide told us, but he only took us through the tallest corridors, otherwise we’d have to walk like “rabbits” to pass through.
As we returned to the bus, three people stood at a table selling fruit juice and something else, each one trying to compete for our business. Renee imagined they must’ve known each other for a long time. Why didn’t they work out some type of cooperative, instead of trying to out-yell the competitors standing three feet away.
We had a very long bus ride after that. I fell asleep. We didn’t get to our new hotel until 7:00 p.m. It was Thanksgiving but certainly didn’t seem like it. There was a great deal of murmuring among the members of our tour.
“Too much time on the road,” said one.
“Every night a new hotel,” said another.
“My internet isn’t working,” said a third.
“Why are our hotels so far from town?” said I.
After another buffet dinner, I went to watch the belly dancing show, and Miss Allen, one of the women from the tour asked me to join her table. She was in fine spirits.
“I feel very blessed to be here, and I’m enjoying every, single minute,” she said. “Ninety percent of the world will never be able to take a tour such as this, to see the places where Jesus walked, to feel the vibration of a different culture. I feel grateful that I am lucky enough to be in that ten percent.”
Day 6
We got to sleep in a little this morning, breakfast at 8:00 a.m., departure at 8:45. For breakfast I had poğaça, a delicious flaky roll often stuffed with feta and herbs, and sprinkled with nigella or sesame seeds.
We headed to Pamukkale, the ancient Hellenistic city of Hierapolis, and explored the Cotton Castle. The Cotton Castle is a natural wonder of white waterfalls created by the calcium, stalactites, and natural pools formed over the centuries by the passing of mineral rich water from nearby hot springs. It’s phenomenal and absolutely gorgeous. It’s something I’d come back to. This whole area was once “one of the most important cultural, commercial and medical centers of antiquity. Asclepion was a prestigious hospital in ancient times and home to Galen, a Greek physician, surgeon and philosopher in the Roman Empire
When we asked where the hospital was, our guide told us the whole area was considered a “hospital,” with the calcium from the hot springs building up the bones, to the amphitheater where patients would watch performances. The place was peaceful and beautiful. I wanted to stay longer but we had to get to the next location.
Next, we paid a pilgrimage to the House of the Virgin Mary, set among pine trees with a mountainous background. It’s a small house that we walked through somberly and in single file. Took about four minutes but packed a spiritual punch for some. For the non-religious, it was a waste of time. Outside the building was a couple of boards with strips of various fabric tied to it. Even some masks. Our guide explained that it was similar to tossing a coin in a fountain and making a wish, or attaching a lock to a bridge to seal you forever to your sweetheart.
Ephesus
Ephesus was the last stop before our hotel and it took about two hours, and worth every second. I’m not one who wants to stare at ruins and analyze every stone carvings for meaning, but the whole site was amazing, from the Roman’s use of plumbing, to the gladiator stage. It’s worth visiting Turkey just to see Ephesus, so don’t miss it. Ephesus lovers even have a Facebook page.
It was dark when we finally got to the hotel which was unfortunate since we were staying in the cute beach town of Kusadasi. At least that’s what they tell us. I wouldn’t know since we arrived at dark, (and left early the next morning before light).
I was exhausted and had to wait for the hotel to separate our beds, so I went to the dinner buffet at about 6:30 p.m. which was very good. Crazy good. Two things I had was a slice of a pide, which reminded me of a really good calzone. I also ate something like a Turkish version of the quesadilla called gözleme. It was two very thin pieces of flat bread with a seasoned filling. I also had Hindu fajitas, like regular fajitas but with curry spices. Yum.
While eating I noticed that several cats roomed the dining room undisturbed by the staff. I didn’t mind. I’m not a huge animal lover, but these felines are tame and seem special. Not all guests shared my sentiment.
Day 7
We had to be on the bus by 7:00 a.m. and our first stop was a fashion show. What?? Actually, it was cute and fun, and interesting to note that the female models were dressed much like my students in Orange County, CA: black clothing with bare midriffs, cutouts on either shoulder, medal accents, four-inch black platform shoes (in my generation they were 6-inch). The women all had very dark hair while the men were lighter-haired but not blond. After the show, we were ushered into a sales room. After purchasing my carpet, I wasn’t looking for any other big-ticket items, but several of our party happily bought leather coats and jackets for around $300-$800 USD.
Our tour guide passed up a couple of culturally interesting cities for lunch stop in favor of an unappealing outlet mall, equipped with a McDonald’s and KFC. I was disappointed with the choice, but was beginning to understand that certain places probably paid tour companies to stop there. Turkey is an economically devastated country, so they are doing all they can to survive.
According to the guide, in the last few years the inflation has been about 300%. Their lira is practically worthless. I was amazed when I went to the grocery store and saw a loaf of bread for 3.50 Turkish lira (about $0.16 USD). A similar loaf in San Diego would be at least $4.50. However, according to the guide, this same loaf has increased ten-fold in the last year.
Troy
We arrived at Troy around 3:00 pm and by this time, I was over it. I knew I should be excited by what I was seeing, but it looked mostly like a pile of stones. The setting was beautiful, and the story behind it is legendary, but I’d seen enough unidentifiable ruins by now and was underwhelmed.
Canakkale
Last stop was Canakkale. Apparently, this city is important in Turkish history, with excellent museums and many fascinating sites, but we never saw them. Renee and I took a walk around the city, winding down toward the water where the boats were kept. It was Saturday night yet very little was happening. The buildings seemed run down and depressed, with collapsed buildings and defunct businesses.
When we got to the harbor, the boats were humble at best. In comparison, Oceanside Harbor. in San Diego county, has big, fancy boats and yachts, with plenty of weekend tourism. Canakkale had tugboats and row boats with a few larger vessels that looked aged and sagging as if they’d survived generations of fishermen. By 8:00 p.m. they were ready to shut down.
Day 8
We headed to Bursa, my favorite city so far. It was on the coast and surrounded by lush forests and mountains, with charming winding streets filled with shops and cafes, lots of historical and religious old buildings. It’s a large city, but without the overwhelming hugeness of Istanbul. It was like Valencia is to Barcelona. In fact, Bursa reminded me a little of Spain. It is famous for its silk market and gorgeous silk products. It still pisses me off that I didn’t buy a scarf there. Instead I bought a kilo of Turkish delight which they sell everywhere in Istanbul.
We only stayed one hour and then got back on the bus for an hour before stopping at a strip mall in the middle of nowhere for our lunch break. Why couldn’t we have stayed in Bursa??
Istanbul
We arrived in Istanbul around 4:30 p.m. It was still light enough to be able to see all the people, cars, busses, buildings, and mosques. Clearly, Istanbul is a huge city. It’s different from every other European city I’ve visited. Most have people, busses, cars, etc. and a river running through it, but this city felt different. Maybe it was the Muslim influence.
The Strait of Bosporus runs through the city, dividing Asia from Europe. I would’ve thought the Strait was just a plain, old river. Apparently, a strait connects to large bodies of water, in this case the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara.
After we checked into our hotel, we discovered we were on the twentieth floor with an amazing view. Once again, the room had a double bed, only this time the cranky front desk clerk said we’d have to live with it until tomorrow. Worse, after traveling together for 8 days we were a bit irritated with each other and would’ve liked separate rooms—maybe even in separate hotels. But we soldiered on.
Nightlife
We hopped on a train to take us downtown. Actually, it wasn’t quite that easy. Figuring out how to purchase tickets was harder than we expected. As usual, I wanted to figure it out, and Renee wanted to ask someone to help us. Very few people spoke English and even though they were willing to help, they didn’t understand us. The employee working at the train depot wasn’t inclined to help. Finally, we purchased two tickets. Which direction was the Grand Bazaar? The train employee said one way, a nice lady said another. We got on the train and hoped for the best. We weren’t disappointed.
Final thoughts
There is so much to see and do in Istanbul. The people are welcoming and wonderful. It’s easy to get around using busses and trains, and taxis are so cheap and plentiful that you could rely solely on them for your transportation. But you see and experience a lot by walking and taking busses. I walked from the Grand Bazaar to our hotel taking side road and alleys, a distance of about 5 miles, and it felt like I was able to experience the city on a whole different level. I felt very safe the whole time.
Whether you take a tour, or go on your own, Turkey is a must see, and it’s definitely a bargain destination.
